mercredi 26 novembre 2008

The Annual Nigeria Durbar...

Hi everyone,

I am taking a little break from my day of trying to figure out our $400 million budget to write an update. i am not sure why they gave me, the numbers dyslexic person a budget to prepare, but I think everyone has to have a go at it...i only wish I had my high school report cards, where they basically gave me the credit as long as I promised never to take math again!

All is well. It is HOT here...and I mean day in and day out, it is over 38 degrees, and the problem is that it is not even the hot season yet...that comes in February...its not like I am outside all day long, but we are starting a campaign this weekend in the north, so I will be outside all day long, walking from house to house all covered up, as I am going to an area again where I can't show any skin.

Last weekend I headed north to a little town outside of Abuja, for the annual Northern Durbar. A Durbar is basically a ceremonial gathering all people from the northern states and from Niger, to celebrate the naming/incoming Emir of the various states. It usually happens just before Eid (which falls on 08 Dec, a muslim holiday like Ramadan). It is a showcase of the horses, jewels, and money that each has. It was insanely hot and dusty, so while it was amazing to see, we were tired and dehydrated the whole time...and no one was selling any water or anything. it was funny because more of the locals were taking pictures of us (the white folk) then we were of them! Photo taking of locals and local places is actually illegal in Nigeria, but yu take the risk. So, I have attached a lot of photos from the weekend...mainly horses and their riders. All the riders are essentially considered the Emir's soldier's (the Emir, is the head of each area in his given state). You may notice on some of the photos that a person may have bunny -like ear on his head -- that means he is the upcoming Emir, while others only have one, which means they are his closest confidants and protectors. The rest that just have turbans are the soldiers, always around to protect him. The durbar is an ancient ritual, and while the Emir is no longer followed around by horsemen and soldiers, he always has the soldiers by his side wherever he goes, as he is a target. There were also lots of elephants there, but it was horrible to see them, as they were severly malnourished and horribly treated...to the point where one went on a bit of a rampage, and the only way to control it was to shoot it dead! Its body was left there to be feasted on by the vultures! Nigerians, especially the northern nigerians, have absolutely no respect for animals, and so the horses, goats, dogs, elephants are all treated very badly and then they are eaten at the end of the usefulness, so while it was nice to see all these immaculately dressed up horses, if you tried to go near them, they would have definitely bitten or bucked you! There was lots of cat roasting going on up there, as I understand it to be a delicacy...so I just went hungry, no interest in cats!

I often have to meet with these Emirs, and these are the guys that cause me a LOT of headaches. They think very highly of themselves, and think they know everything, but really they are rather useless and just lucky to have been born into the family they are in. Some are more helpful than others though!

It was awesome to get to experience the Durbar, as it is a huge event here! I got some great photos, but I have like hundreds, so I only put up a few. The music played there was unbelievable as well...I wish I could post the videos I took, as the musicians are almost trans-like, and just sit and play for hours on their drums, horns, etc! It was really intense to watch, but an incredible experience!

Enough from me for now. Christmas is very soon approaching, and I actually heard my first christmas "carole" the other day...snapped me back to reality! Still not sure what my Christmas plans are, but I have to go to Kuala Lumpar again next week...and from there I have to come back here for a few days of a silly retreat...and then holiday time! So, not sure where I will end up, but most likely Italy or eastern Kenya...ideally a beach, with lots of cold beverages.

Happy holidays to all!

love ange

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